Day 193. Kings Canyon

There and back again….

Looking into Kings Canyon

YES! This morning I didn’t have to get up early, and I could get to sleep in for a change. Unfortunately after the last three days of early starts, I still woke at around 6am, but at least I could stay in bed. It was so cold that I was more than happy to stay put.

Looking back out of Kings Canyon

As it was, it was probably the coldest night that we have experienced yet. My feet felt like icicles, and it made for an unpleasant last few hours before getting up. Tomorrow night I’ll ensure I wear socks to bed, and I’ll leave the heater going until we finally hit the hay.

The walk along the rim of the canyon

Check out the monkey in the background!

Today we’ve planned to go bushwalking with the Nixon’s – our friends from Victoria. Our destination this morning is the Kings Canyon Rim Walk - a 6.5km walk around the top of the canyon. We met up at 9am and dropped off Barry (the Nixon’s pop) at the parks reception; as he was booked in to do a helicopter ride around the canyon later in the morning. We then drove the 10kms to Kings Canyon and started our adventure.

Walking through the 'Lost City'

Grace and Scarlett

The bad part of the story is the climb to the top of the gorge was at the start of the walk. At least there were a number of rest areas on the way up, as Bec was really starting to feel a little sore after her recent adventure to the top of Ayers Rock two days ago. It was a couple of hundred meters straight up, on very steep rock stairs.

Karren and Bec

Crossing a bridge onto an outcrop within the canyon

The view from the top was amazing! We could see for miles across the plains far below, but the view of the top of the canyon wasn’t what I had expected. It was very rocky, and it reminded us of the Bungle Bungles – back in the Kimberley in Western Australia. The rocks looked like mini bee-hives, or a lost city (another place we visited in Litchfield Park), and around every corner there was a new site to see. It really is an amazing part of Australia.

Rebecca on the edge of the world!

Smile!

The views into the canyon were breathtaking. The sheer walls of the cliffs were spellbinding, and the contrasting colours of the rocks and vegetation made for a great backdrop. Even the kids enjoyed the exploring and different views around every corner.

The shear cliffs of Kings Canyon

The Garden of Eden

Half way around the rim of Kings Canyon, we encountered the ‘Garden of Eden’ a small gorge located down within the base of the canyon. There were palms and ferns, as well as pools of water that looked very inviting. If it wasn’t for the cool temperature of the day, I’m sure we would have been tempted to dip our toes in. However everyone was starting to feel a little sore from all the climbing up and down, so we continued on our way along the rim.

Looking down into the Garden of Eden - with the domes in the background

During our walk, the kids played games and talked about things only kids understand; but it kept them busy and made walking the total distance that much easier. Karen, Glen, Bec and I, kept a sharp eye on the kids as much of the walk was along the edge of cliff tops. I think even us adults enjoyed the company of another family as well, as we talked about our own experiences during our travels around Oz.

All up it took us just shy of three hours to complete the walk, and it was thoroughly enjoyable. Bec may dispute this call, as she was suffering from tired muscles and it probably caused a little bit of distraction from the beauty of the place.

The walk back out of Kings Canyon

We returned then to Kings Canyon Resort to enjoy a lunch of Mango Tandori Chicken Pizza that was leftovers from last night’s dinner. It was a great way to finish a great morning; sitting in the shade outside the van and relaxing – so much so that Bec fell asleep in her chair outside. She must have been buggered!

This evening we caught up with the Nixon’s again, and ended up enjoying a scrumptious BBQ dinner while overlooking the mountain ranges that are part of the canyon lands. During dinner, a wild dingo walked past our table and disappeared into the bush. The number of wild dogs and dingos in this area is truly unbelievable. You’re pretty much guaranteed to see at least one or two a day.

Enjoying a BBQ with our friends - The Nixon's!

After dinner, Bec put on a movie in our van and the kids all grabbed some pop corn and settled in under a blanket to watch ‘Indiana Jones’. Meanwhile us ‘oldies’ all grabbed a hot cuppa and sat around outside the van to talk. It was nice to sit back outside while relaxing with friends, knowing the kids were up to no trouble inside. (Would you believe that another dingo walked past the back of our van while we were sitting around talking? – This place would have to be the dingo hotspot of Australia).

Tomorrow we say goodbye to the Nixon’s, as they are heading back up to Alice Springs, and then into QLD. Hopefully we’ll see again in our journey as we travel around Australia???

posted by Shane

Day 192. Ayers Rock to Kings Canyon

Pancakes at the Olgas

An amazing thing happened this morning; I managed to get Shane and Scarlett up again at 6am for the third day in a row. Today’s mission was to catch sunrise at the ‘Olgas’, and to pull this off I had to promise them both a yummy breakfast of pancakes to get them out of bed!

Looking East: Watching the sunrise and Ayers Rock

We got there just before 7am and joined in the hoards of people jostling for position to get their perfect sunrise photo. In one direction the sun was peeping over the horizon right next to ‘Ayres Rock’. In the other were the beautiful pinks, oranges, and yellows as the sun hit the Olgas. I really didn’t know what direction to look, so I took a million photos in both.

Looking West; the sunlight on the Olgas

When we got back to the car we drove to the picnic area nearby and set up the burner, where Scarlett then made us all pancakes with maple syrup for breakfast. She is becoming such a good cook and loves to take care of Shane and I. After our bellies were full we decided to tackle the ‘Olgas Gorge Walk’. This walk was only an hour return, which was good because we still had to get back and pack the van to move on.
 

The walk started out a little gingerly, with yesterday’s leaving me more than a little sore. Lucky it was relative flat, and not too far, so we managed to make it there and back again in good time. Deep within the Olgas we felt like ants. The domes towered more than 270mtrs above us in the air, and it was quite cold with the wind blowing through. Shane joked to Scarlett we were going to climb them, to which she promptly replied “not me dad, not today”.





I was so glad we made the effort to visit these massive domes they are quiet spectacular from afar, and even more breathtaking up close.

We fuelled up, grabbed some groceries and finally made it out of the park by 11:15am starting the long 310km journey to ‘King’s Canyon’. I drove the first 150km’s, then we stopped for lunch and Shane drove the rest of the way. Scarlett and I had a great sleep in the car, while Shane kept an eye out for feral camels. There was camel poo everywhere along the road, and he was keen to see another wild one.



When we arrived at Kings Canyon, Grace was at our car before the engine had even been turned off. The Nixon’s arrived here yesterday, and the kids have been very eagerly awaiting Scarlett’s arrival. Well that was the last we saw of her, as they were off and played all afternoon in the playground with the other kids.

Scarlett up on stage playing the bucket drums!

Shane 'doing the actions' to 'Home among the Gum-trees!

After set up, Shane and I went to have a beer with Karen, Greg and Barry. It was down at their camp that we spied our very first dingo here. He was a very game trying to get into someone’s camper trailer looking for food. He finally settled with a tuppaware container left out on the camp table, containing one lonely biscuit. I ran at it clapping and growling, but undeterred the dingo made off with the whole container in its mouth. The dingo’s/wild dogs seem to be a real problem here, as we saw another not 10min later. When the kids returned from the playground they said they had seen another couple up there. We were even told to bring in our shoes at night, as they sometimes even take off with them.

Bec singing: "Do wa diddy diddy dum diddy do"

This evening after homemade pizza, we all decided to go up to the pub for a free stage show called ‘the Roadies’. They are a husband and wife duo, who do quite a funny musical/comedy act. They had all the kids up on stage playing instruments for a few songs, and Scarlett was in her element. They then pulled up all the kids dads to do the actions of ‘Home among the Gum-Trees’. Poor Shane had the funniest wig on, we couldn’t stop laughing at him. I didn’t get away scot free either, being dragged up with a wig on singing; ‘Do wa diddy diddy dum diddy do’ - (sorry mum you would have known what this song was called).

It was a very enjoyable evening, we all laughed, danced, sang, and had a great time. Tomorrow we are all off on a 6km walk around the rim of the canyon. I’m sure we will be regretting letting the kids stay out so late then…..

Day 191. Ayres Rock

An epic rock climb!

It's 6am, and Bec has us up out of bed for the second day in a row. Admittedly there is good reason, as we are up and off to watch the sunrise at Ayres Rock. As usual, Bec has everything organised, and all I have to do is somehow fit it all in the Pajero...

Sunrise at Ayers Rock

We arrive at the rock, with just moments to spare,. Bec grabs the camera and disappears before anyone can blink. She is off to pick 'her' spot with camera in hand, ready to capture another magical moment out here in the red centre.

Meanwhile back in the car park, Scarlett and I start unloading the menagerie of 'stuff' Bec has packed, and begin preparing a cooked breakfast. First we boil the jug, ready for our morning cup-of-teas. Then Scarlett throws on bacon and toast (her breakfast), and starts cooking herself a fantastic smelling hot breakie.

Sunrise at Ayers Rock (with the Olga's in the background)

Scarlett cooking up a storm!

Just as Scarlett serves up her own breakfast, Bec wanders back with a huge grin on her face. She's enjoyed her morning; watching the sun rise over the spectacular Ayers Rock - and better still, she loves what is greeting her; a hot cuppa and a hot breakfast. Nothing to fancy I'm afraid, just egg and bacon on toast; but from the envious looks and offers of money we get from the other tourists as they return to their cars, it must of looked like a feast!

After a yummy breakfast overlooking the amazing monolith that Ayers Rock is, we were back in the car and off to check out what other adventures 'the rock' had to offer. We stopped off at a car park that led to some aboriginal paintings and a waterhole, but Scarlett just wanted to climb the rock - something she has been pestering us about ever since we arrived here yesterday.

Around the other side of Ayers Rock

Not thinking that this was going to go anywhere, we drove around the rock and stopped at the base of the climb. I was surprised to see it open to climbers, as I'd heard from our friends Karren and Greg, that it was closed yesterday morning. The signs at the base of the climbing point asks visitors to respect aboriginal culture and not climb the rock - but luckily(?) for Scarlett she still can't read because she was already on her way up to chicken rock!

Bec and I grabbed the camera and water bottles, and soon joined Scarlett for the walk up to 'chicken rock'. We arrived there in no time at all, and Scarlett was soon wanting to climb further. Um... OK, so we'll climb the short distance up to the chain handrail - but again Scarlett was full of beans and wanted to continue on. We ventured further and further up along the chain, and were soon taking a rest break (or two) as the rock face was getting steeper and steeper.

Bec and Scarlett ready to tackle 'the rock'

I took the opportunity to ask Scarlett if it was time to head back, but she wouldn't hear of it. She wanted to keep going, and Bec wasn't going to hold her back - as it's something she never finished when she visited Ayers Rock when she was just a little girl. So off we trudged again, with Scarlett leading the way. Bec and I were both quietly 'willing' Scarlett to give up and quit, but the kid just kept going. She was like the 'Energiser Bunny' on TV, as she kept powering up the rock. On a number of times we had to call her back as either Bec or I wanted to take a break, much to Scarletts' disgust. About a dozen breaks later (and a quick phone call to Wendy telling her what we were doing), we finally reached the top where we found a a marker indicating the highest point on Ayers Rock.

Bec and Scarlett taking a break from the climb

It took us just under 2 hours to get up there, but the view was spectacular! I think even Scarlett was glad when we finally reached the top, as after what seemed like a million false crests, we reached the marker. Bec was a little disappointed as she was hoping there was a visitors book at the top that we could sign, but there was nothing to be seen for miles - and I mean miles. We could clearly see the Olga's and Mt Conner in the distance, and even the curviture of the earth.



Only half way up, and mum is already buggered



I'll be very honest here and say that I didn't think we would make it to the top of Ayers Rock. We didn't wake up and plan to walk/climb up Ayers Rock this morning, as we were really looking at riding our push bikes the 9kms around the base of the rock. However, Scarlett was very keen to tackle the rock and Bec and I weren't going to stand in her way.

Nearly there...

At the top, we took a 'few' photo's on the camera, and then another on my mobile phone. I sent the photo via sms to Becs family and also to my brother; before uploading a photo of Scarlett on top of the rock on 'facebook'. Paul (my brother) then called me to say G'day and to tell me how jealous he was with what we were doing while he was stuck back at work south of Sydney.

just a bit more...

This gave me the idea of ringing Becs dad Russell from the top of Ayers Rock, and after trying a second time we finally got through. He was dumbfounded that we had 'reached the top', and to say that he was very impressed with Scarlett and her amazing achievement would be an understatement. It was great to share such a special moment with him, as we haven't seen him now for over 6 months; and I know for a fact that both Bec and Scarlett are missing him (and Wendy) like crazy.

Come on mum! Just a bit further...

We probably spent about 20 minutes on top of the rock (where Bec and Scarlett even had a game of Miss Mary Mac - the clapping game). It was soon time to start making our way back down to the base of Ayers Rock, and it wasn't something either Bec or I were looking fwd to. There were a couple of steep sections along the path that had both Bec and Scarlett sliding along on their butts (which was very funny to watch), but by the time we reached the bottom Scarlett had worn the seat out of her pants. The holes are everywhere and just to bad to repair; so I guess I now have more rags to use.

On top of Ayers Rock (and that's the Olga's in the background)

We did it

Well, it took us a total of three and a half hours to climb to the top and back down again. It was an experience I will never forget; especially since I got to do it with two girls. I underestimated both of them, and I am truly sorry for that. I guess you learn a new thing everyday - and mine today was to respect, praise and encourage; not to stress and think something isn't within either of their reaches. I am very pleased to see that Scarlett had it in her to do it at the ripe old age of 5, and also happy to see that Bec never gave up. They are both amazing people that I feel very privileged to have in my life.

After burning so many calories this morning, we returned to the van where Bec made a yummy lunch, before she 'fell' into bed for a well earned rest. Scarlett watched a movie, before talking me into playing with her outside while Bec slept. Bec woke up hours later, while Scarlett spent the afternoon riding her bike around the campground and playing in the playground.

Miss Mary Mac.. Mac... Mac..

This evening we had planned to watch the sunset over the Olga's, but we just didn't have it in us after today's huge adventure. Instead, we spent the afternoon and evening relaxing around the van.

Although hundreds of Kms out of the way, I'm glad we visited this very special part of Australia. We achieved personal goals on an Australian icon, that we probably wouldn't have had the chance to do in a few years time - as it appears Ayers Rock - or Uluru as the local indigenious people refer it as; is going to be completely closed off to any climbing.



A great photo taken by Scarlett

Bec will probably have us up at the crack of dawn tomorrow to watch sunrise over the Olga's, before we head north up to Kings Canyon where we plan on spending a few days exploring and resting.

The Olga's on the horizon

Day 190. Alice Springs to Ayres Rock

The rock that took my breath away

We had a plan to be on the road by 7am today to start our 460km journey to Ayres Rock. We nearly made it, pulling out at 7:25am; not bad for us anyway. Along the way Scarlett watched 3 x movies, while I had a sleep and read all the tourist pamphlets.
 

Jim and 'Dinky'

First stop was the Stuart Well Roadhouse, about 90km's south of Alice and home to the worlds only (and very famous) Dinky the singing Dingo. Jim Cotterill saved Dinky from a baiting program when he was just a pup, and now he is a part of the family. Dinky first started singing whenever Jim's daughter played the piano, and now he gets up and paws the keys to his own tune.

We were a little early, arriving at 8:20am, but Jim was up and in the dining room sipping a coffee and trying to wake up. Scarlett and I approached him and asked what is the best time to see Dinky sing? Jim replied "Let me just finish my coffee, and I will pop out the back and ask him if he wants to come in and belt out a tune". A little while later Jim disappeared and walked back in with Dinky on a lead, and let us know he had agreed to sing for Scarlett.

'Dinky' the singing Dingo - giving Bec and Scarlett a personal rendition

I have seen many things in my time on the road, but this was astounding! Dinky climbed up and onto the piano and proceeded to paw at the keys, and in some sort of strange order howled out a tune. Scarlett and I were dumbfounded. We started clapping after about 5 min; just to have Dinky start straight back up again. This was a very memorable moment, and one none of us will soon forget.

A wild camel on the side of the road - on the way to Ayers Rock

There was a quick stop for fuel down at the Lasseter Hwy turn off, then lunch was at the 'Mt Conner' look out. Mount Conner, also known as Artilla, is 100km's out of Ayres Rock on the border of the vast Curtin Springs cattle station. It reaches up to 859 metres (2,818 ft) above sea level and to 300 metres (984 ft) above ground level. It's a horseshoe-shaped inselberg, and part of the same vast rocky substrate thought to be beneath Uluru and the Olgas. It's often confused with Uluru, since it can be seen from the road when heading west towards Uluru and the Olga's. But this monster is more than three times the size of Uluru. Scarlett's best mate's name is Connor, and she was very impressed there was a mountain named after him!


Our lunch stop - with Mt Conner in the background



Emu

We got into Ayres Rock Resort at about 2pm after a long 6 hours on the road. We got a site right next to 'The Nixon's', who arrived here yesterday.
We had made prior arrangements to meet up at 5pm for sunset overlooking the rock, and right on time they arrived back after a huge day out. We drove to the sunset viewing area, and along with a million other people we found a spot; cracked some wine, pulled out the nibblies and sat back and watched the magic happen.

I remember visiting the rock once before when I was much younger, but nothing prepared me for the size, colour and shape of this magnificent behemoth of a monument. Today when we pulled up it literally took my breath away, and now I can't wait for tomorrow; when we get a much closer look (and maybe even a litle climb of it).

Enjoying a beautiful sunset with a rock star - Uluru (Ayers Rock)

I love Ayres Rock!